gmoran
I raced Once.
Posts: 85
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Post by gmoran on Apr 25, 2012 10:08:32 GMT -6
These forums don't get used enough! So I am working on what was Troys old red FB and is now my old red FB: Done: cleaned it all (was damn greasy) inside gutted most of the wiring harness cleaned out windows and motors associated removed headlight actuators gone carbon cleaned out the engine (for the most part, water vapor trick + some throttle abuse) .0625" Alu. dash built and instruments installed (waiting on tach to arrive and then a re-design of the dash. Thinking something with a piece that angles with a large face looking directly at me so it's easier to read the instruments)  working on the carb right now, trying to get her back to a steady idle around 850 Oil pan needs to be removed, old gasket material cleaned, and a new seal put in its place, fixed any other leaks I found with some teflon tape (rear-end housing plug). Windshield needs replacing.  Trying to also figure out if my seat is still in spec, I know the 5-point is good till 2013 but I am not sure about the seat. It looks to have a manufacted date but not a out-of-spec date? If anyone knows about the seat, or anything about carburetors feel free to chime in. It's the stock Nikki carb, dunno if it needs a rebuild or what. Working the throttle from the carb in the engine bay, if you let it down slowly then it will stop at aroud 1100-1200 RPM and idle there, then if you rev it and let go of it to let the spring snap it back to idle quickly then it drops to around 750. I've tried adjusting the idler screw and it doesn't seem to help. EDIT: Cleaning the air filter and messing with the carb just now while I was doing some maintenance on our waterjet... Looks like the accelerator pump is sticking slightly which I think is a major part of the problem with my varying idle. Also, the fuel pump is supplying around 25 PSI to the bowl, which to me sounds like a lot, any rotary specialists wanna chime in? I am thinking a carb rebuild is in the future. Also, cleaning up stuff and going through all the parts Troy gave me with the car, there is a Mikuni 2-barrel carb that looks to be in good condition, gonna do research on it and see what I come up with. |
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gmoran
I raced Once.
Posts: 85
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Post by gmoran on Apr 29, 2012 13:42:26 GMT -6
The carb looks to be a Mikuni PHH S5 with 44mm butterflys.    It's pretty clean on the inside, floats look brand new, ordered a new gasket kit and hit it with some carb cleaner and a little scotch brite after I took these pics. |
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gmoran
I raced Once.
Posts: 85
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Post by gmoran on May 1, 2012 11:32:07 GMT -6
Gasket and seal kit came in yesterday. I've ID'd all the parts and where they are on the carb with the help of all the diagrams over at Uprgade Motoring which is where I got the kit from. Most of the gaskets were in near perfect condition but, being made of paper, of course tore when I went to open it to check the internals out. Gonna tear it completely down and let it soak in something then get to rebuilding it. I managed to find some people with 12a's that ran the Mikuni PHH 44mm and according to them it made a big difference in performance as well as sound (I am more concerned about the performance side of things). |
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gmoran
I raced Once.
Posts: 85
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Post by gmoran on May 1, 2012 22:39:52 GMT -6
    Freshly rebuilt. Not sure if it was supposed to but, the accelerator pump was full of oil. Dirty oil. One of the barrels had some oil in it too and it had accumulated behind the large venturi so I went ahead and broke down the entire thing to single pieces and cleaned everything, then replaced all the gaskets. I used the original copper and aluminum washers because they were in good condition and most of the o-rings as well. Next thing is to get it on the car and running =P |
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gmoran
I raced Once.
Posts: 85
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Post by gmoran on May 2, 2012 16:12:53 GMT -6
She runs! Not well, yet, but she runs.
I need a new throttle cable, stocker isn't long enough and holds the throttle half way open.
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gmoran
I raced Once.
Posts: 85
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Post by gmoran on May 3, 2012 20:35:38 GMT -6
You may wanna turn the volume down, not sure why it is so loud.
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gmoran
I raced Once.
Posts: 85
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Post by gmoran on May 6, 2012 11:30:41 GMT -6
Found this on a website with some good rotary info: Solex Mikuni 44 PHH side draft 2 barrel: These carbs are no longer available, but there are still some used ones that come up for sale occasionally. The performance will be comparable to the Weber 45 DCOE side draft 2 barrel. I ran one for several years on first a stock ported 12A, then on a street ported 12A. Weber 45 DCOE side draft 2 barrel: These carbs are a good compromise between power and smoothness or driveability on the street. Gas mileage may be slightly less than using the modified Nikki 4 barrel. As with all big 2 barrel carbs, you cannot open the throttle quickly at low engine speeds. The minimum engine speed at which a big 2 barrel will not bog varies depending on the size of the venturies, but it usually you cannot floor them below 3500 rpm without the engine stumbling. This is usually a rude shock to someone new to a 2 barrel, but that is just the laws of physics. You can overcome the bog by learning how quickly you can open the throttle and when you can give it full throttle. These carbs require a special intake manifold made just for this carb and your engine. I strongly recommend that you buy a complete kit with carb, air filter, intake manifold, and the linkage required. If you buy a carb off of some other application, it will take you time and money to get all the other necessary pieces rounded up, and a lot of time to get it all running smooth. So the bogging down at low rpms is normal when swapping to a larger 2-barrel carb. Great throttle response at higher rpms (haven't put it under a load yet though). Basically sounds like I gotta work on mah lead foot  . |
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gmoran
I raced Once.
Posts: 85
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Post by gmoran on May 10, 2012 6:54:55 GMT -6
Took it for a test drive. Unfortunately all I have is a dirt/gravel road so I can't really do anything to put the engine under full load. Maybe I'll take it for a quick spin on the road >_>'
Works very well though. The starter makes starting a cold engine a breeze.
You can NOT do anything more than feather the throttle till right at 3500 rpm, just like it says above. Once you hit that mark though, it loves WOT.
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lane
I just want to go fast!
Posts: 164
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Post by lane on May 11, 2012 8:04:47 GMT -6
that setup sounds like an old school turbo! Its gonna be a bitch to drive when you get in traffic.  |
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gmoran
I raced Once.
Posts: 85
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Post by gmoran on May 11, 2012 12:09:39 GMT -6
that setup sounds like an old school turbo! Its gonna be a bitch to drive when you get in traffic. Above 3500 it's not too bad. Not much bogging, just runs good, and it loves WOT. Below 3500 is a problem though. It requires some serious pedal control to get it up to 3500 quickly without killing the engine. I think I should be able to keep the RPMs up without too much problem, just gonna be learnin the track and what gear I need to be in and where. I managed to sneak it onto the road to put the engine under load and it did just fine. There is a slight hesitation when I shift but I think that was due to lack of a heavy return spring on the carb. I put a secondary progressive spring to help kick it back to idle. Once I did she dropped from 1000-1200 idle down to 850-900 and stayed there. I am pretty pleased with the upgrade so far but only some real track time will tell whether or not it was worth it. I was messin with it today and under load I noticed a sweet smell from the exhaust. Took a look in the crankcase and sure enough, lungbutter . One solution, crankcase vent! That and another cleaning + oil change should do some good. |
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gmoran
I raced Once.
Posts: 85
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Post by gmoran on May 14, 2012 8:36:57 GMT -6
Holy lung mustard batman!  Nasty shtuff. Crankcase pulling vaccum = water vapor getting pulled in and condensing. Solution = oil filler tube vent? Looks to have a vent with a res already though so maybe this is just build up over time that you can't prevent. I've read pretty much all rotaries have this crap in them. On a side note I've got a 1978 Lola 492 body (back half need rebuilding but the alu tub is ok) and engine (need rebuild also, little rusty on the inside + rocker arm got stripped out and broke) and oddly enough a guy contacted me who was the owner for several years and has fsm's and whatnot =p |
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nine44s
I just want to go fast!
I <3 Porsches
Posts: 204
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Post by nine44s on May 16, 2012 20:35:25 GMT -6
When are we going to see this thing on the track?! ;D
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gmoran
I raced Once.
Posts: 85
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Post by gmoran on May 18, 2012 5:58:30 GMT -6
When are we going to see this thing on the track?! ;D Very soon. Windshield and oil pan gasket are all that's really left that need to be done. |
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Post by turbot on May 18, 2012 6:18:47 GMT -6
When are we going to see this thing on the track?! ;D Very soon. Windshield and oil pan gasket are all that's really left that need to be done. Don't let the lack of participation get you down. You could document the steps in reconditioning a Pratt and Whitney jet engine with complete disassembly and get 2 comments here... T |
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gmoran
I raced Once.
Posts: 85
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Post by gmoran on May 18, 2012 10:25:00 GMT -6
Very soon. Windshield and oil pan gasket are all that's really left that need to be done. Don't let the lack of participation get you down. You could document the steps in reconditioning a Pratt and Whitney jet engine with complete disassembly and get 2 comments here... T I'm not, this isn't much of anything special anyways. It's more for documentation purposes than anything. I tend to get knee-deep in projects and then forget what I've done previous to what I am doing. My thoughts are more forum use = more exposure on the web = more exposure for the track = more people out at the track When I google "Louisiana Road Racing" I get NMSP for the first few pages and no sight of CGB. Need moar tags in teh code |
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